Tutorial #1, “coastlines”

Published on:

I am hoping to put together a few tutorials. My goal is to write one tutorial per month.

To start out in November 2011, I am reprinting a tutorial I wrote for 1X.com a few months ago. It is the first and only tutorial I’ve written so far. I would appreciate any comments on it, and all suggestions on how tutorials like this one can be improved. I also welcome any questions you might have on the making of this image.

This tutorial also appeared in the September 2011 issue of “Practical Photoshop” magazine.

——————–

COASTLINES

(1) CONTEXT

This image is intended as an abstract impression of an evening on the Pacific Northwest coastline.

(2) THE PICTURE

“Coastlines” is a blending in Photoshop of two separate digital images, but three digital files. I used one of the pictures twice.

– The first image was shot June of 2010, Nikon D200, Nikon 18.0-70.0 mm f/3.5-4.5 lens, at f/8 and 1/125 sec, no flash, ISO 100. I was on a ferry, the photo is a typical view of the coastline as the ferry goes by.

– The second image, used twice, a closeup of water in a pan, was made indoors with a Nikon D7000, Sigma 150 f/2.8 macro lens, Metz flash, at f/5.6 and 1/60 sec, ISO 100. The setup for this picture is:
. pan of water on a table
. dark room
. reflective material (wrapping paper in this case) behind the pan
. camera, on tripod, at a bit higher than water level
. flash on remote cable to the left side illuminating the paper behind the water
. carefully focus on a point in the middle of the pan – I use a paperclip to aid in focusing
. move the water around gently – I used a Rocket blower to blow air onto the surface to move it as if it were waves
. shoot

I used two versions of this image, the standard shot, and then the same shot with a “fisheye” distortion applied to it.

(3) PROCESSING

Software used: Adobe Bridge and PhotoShop CS5, Photomatix 2.0.2 plugin, in camera (Nikon D7000) editing

Both images were shot RAW and converted without adjustments from Adobe Bridge to PhotoShop CS5, sRGB 16 bit. Once in PSCS5, I worked on them separately first, and then combined them into the final image.

I worked on the second image (water in a pan) first:
– cloned out sensor dust and dust on the surface of the water
– created a copy layer and ran this layer through the Photomatix Tonemapping plugin. I used a mild tonemapping to bring out colour in the dark shadow areas. The settings for using this plugin are very particular to each image, but the idea, for me, is to bring out colour detail in dark areas and brighten up the image overall, without introducing too much noise or creating an image that looks not believable.
– blended this copy layer in lighten mode with the original
– used curves to adjust colour/contrast
– the Nikon D7000 has an editing feature, “fisheye”. I created a second version of this image using this fisheye distortion, and opened it. In PhotoShop, I had to do the same corrections/adjustments as to the non-fisheyed image, except that before using Photomatix I needed to convert the 8 bit JPG created by the D7000 to a 16 bit image for Photomatix to recognize the file.
– Once I had these two versions of the same image, I stacked them, background layer 100%, fisheye layer in normal mode, opacity 50%. Merged.
– Adjusted curves in the merged version.

Then I worked on the image of the strip of land and ocean/sky:
– Adjusted the horizon line to make it perfectly straight
– Increased contrast (curves) to a much darker strip of land

I then made a copy of this image and pasted on top of the water in the pan image. The water image was larger than the land image, because the D7000 creates larger files than the D200. This was not a problem, since I was using only portions of the strip of land image
– Set opacity on this top layer to 50%, to figure out where I wanted the horizon line to be placed. Moved the picture until satisfied.
– Once satisfied, I created a mask for the portions of the strip of land image that I wanted to keep. I discarded all information below the horizon line (on the strip of land image), but softly blended in the clouds with the water image. The dark land area I kept completely.
– I blended the two images into one (select all, copy merged, paste)
– I then worked on final adjustments to contrast/colours using curves and selective colour adjustment layers in PSCS5.
– Again, select all, copy merged, paste for a final workable copy
– Gently and carefully dodged/burned the horizon line and the land and just above the land portions of the image.
– Saved as a TIFF, and saved another resized/sharpened version for web presentation.

(4) OUTCOME

My hope is that with images such as “coastlines”, images that are impressions of a place or a subject, I can get to the essence of what makes a subject what it is.

Loosely, these photos are “photo-impressionism”. With them, I can abstract subjects and provide much more character than with a representational photo. Photo-impressionism allows me to express feelings, thoughts, dreams, and fleeting moments in time, when a small change in light can make the difference between utterly glorius and plain drab.

But more so than anything else, the concepts of photo-impressionism make me, and the viewer, pay attention to colour. I love colour! I play with colour and use it almost as if it were the subject itself, which, in a way, it is, at least in photography. Light is colour.

18 responses to “Tutorial #1, “coastlines””

  1. Thanks for your generosity Ursula it is very instructive; the best of it all would be that you make a little video to illustrate your technique…

  2. Thank you. I would have no idea how to make a video of anything 🙂

  3. It does mot matter,your tutorial is clear, I should try it someday, have a nice week-end

  4. Ursula, this is amazing! I found myself peering over your art for hours last night… it is bearthtaking, leaves me puzzled and confused as of how is the world you manage to create such beauty?!? I almost feel like creating things like that should be reserved for higher powers 🙂
    Tell me, the rich colors in the images of water, is it the result of processing or you had the colours mostly done in camera? if in camera, how do you get it?
    Thank you very much for sharing your art!
    Regards, Vlad.

    1. Vlad, thank you! The colours in the water picture are in-camera. The picture is a closeup of water in a pan, reflecting colourful paper in back of the pan of water. The colour comes from the reflection. The picture is a bit dark, and I had to lighten it, but the colours are part of the picture and not added in Photoshop. However, please don’t misunderstand … I have no problems with people adding colour/s in post-processing, as long as the final result is, well, “good” 🙂

  5. Ursula,
    Thank you for you reply. mow I definitely want to try this at home!
    Would you share some additional details with us, like the pan’s shape and transparency, the position of the color paper, do you use macro or regular lens, how long the shutter stays open… I see you also use flash during those long shutter exposures, do you use it directly, reflected/modified?
    I imagine trying different options will be a lot of fun, but I guess I just cannot wait to have some new screen savers for my Mac;)
    Thank you very much!

  6. Vlad, thank you again.

    I think I will try to put together a tutorial on how to make these water closeups for my next tutorial.

    I hope you don’t mind waiting just a little bit.

    1. Hello, Chiara! Good to see you here 🙂

  7. Hi Ursula
    I’m also concerned about the pan m’y understanding is it is not a transparent one you make a close up on the surface of the water…and the paper is like the one we use for wrapping gifts?

    1. The pan I have become fond of using is tinted glass. It is a rectangular glass Pirex pan, like the pans that people use to bake lasagna, but shallower. I tried a totally transparent (clear) pan, one tinted blue, the soft brown tinted pan that I like best so far, and one ceramic enameled black pan. None of them were metal, and only the black one wasn’t at least somewhat transparent. The black pan didn’t work well for me, but I didn’t experiment enough to know why. The others, I liked the brown tinted best. The colour of the pan does influence how the reflections work, but exactly how, hmmmm … I need to work on that to figure it out.

      I have been using a white towel under the pans to catch any spilling water. White because it doesn’t add even more colours to the mix, as when I tried a colourful striped towel. I’ve tried putting various papers under the transparent pan, and also papers/plastics/objects in the pan, to alter the water movement and the colours of the reflections. So far I am not all that happy with any of the experiments.

      Yes, the paper I use for reflective material is wrapping paper, like the shiny papers that are used for wrapping Christmas gifts. You have to be a bit careful with metallic paper, because the flash bounce can create all sorts of light spots and distortions that sometimes work well for what you want to do, but often are simply annoying.

      Hope this helps.

      PS – I am working on a tutorial for this.

  8. Thanks so much, it really help. If we were closer I would help you to make the video!
    If you want, give a try to Camtasia, it is easy to learn but more used for screen catching. But I think with can add videos…
    Suggestion for your next tutorial” how you get those long shapes with trees (jerrylandia and lodgepole). Have a nice day!

  9. Greetings Ursula, first of all, thank you for sharing your tutorial and caring enough to want to share how you create such wonderful impressionist abstracts that speak which such power. Your technical step by step breakdown is very clear, and your artistic/creative explanation is wonderful. How you came to create these kind of images in the first place would be a wonderful journey in and of itself. As one who has wrestled with what degree of abstraction to bring to an image (I live on the west coast, though I spent my early years in the Kootenays) of waves, for instance, to lend emotional punch to the image is something that you have done masterfully in your layering technique. I’ve been trying to do it all through camera motion and photoshop tweaking only. I look forward to you continuing to create tutorials of this nature by the way. They are invaluable. Should you ever be out in the area of Gabriola Island, please let me know., The Gabriola Photography Club would welcome a presentation by you. Thanks again, Dirk

  10. Thank you Ursula!
    A lot!
    Love this guide!

  11. Rousseau Thierry Avatar
    Rousseau Thierry

    Hi Ursula,
    I have just discovered your photos; Impressionism landscapes. It is an exceptional work! I hope you will continue this kind of pictures… It is a real pleasure to stay and looking at a photo. It really makes me dream.
    I guess it took you so much time to reach this quality. I am tempted to try this kind of photos. Now I am just equipped with a normal lens. What kind of macro lens do you recommend to start with ? Is a 50mm macro lens is enough ? or do you recommend to buy a 105mm or a 150 ? Will it make a difference since it is possible to shoot very close ?
    Thank you for all your work and I will follow you for sure

    Thierry

  12. […] Pour créer les fonds colorés d’images comme celle-ci, Ursula Abresch prend des photos d’eau, généralement dans une casserole, eau qu’elle fait bouger dans une pièce sombre et qu’elle éclaire indirectement par réflexion sur une matière qu’elle choisit en fonction du résultat et des couleurs souhaitées. Pour ceux qui sont intéressés, elle explique sa technique (en anglais) dans un article sur son blog. […]

    1. Thank you! Merci! Posted link to my homepage and to Facebook. ~Ursula

      Sent from my iPad

      >

  13. I love your landscape images. I used to create digital art but haven’t done anything for ages and have just seen your work which has inspired me to have another go at this which I think is similar to your work

    http://bluefinart.com/store/products/ailsa-craig/

Leave a Reply

Discover more from Ursula's Photos

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading