Thursday 16 April 2026

This is my first day of walking. It likely is one of the more difficult days because you have to cross the Pyrenees from France to Navarra in Spain. There are two routes, the Ruta de Napoleón and the Valcarlos route. I chose the Napoleon Route because it was such a beautiful day and going over the mountain sounded great. It’s quite a bit of up and then a steep down to Roncesvalles.

The day started quite foggy, but soon the fog cleared and it ended up being a spectacularly beautiful day.

I enjoyed the hike very much!

There were some horses by the trai. A peregrins sat down on a rock and made friends with one of the horses.

The highlight of my day was meeting an Argentinian woman I’d met in St Jean, and drinking mate with her! Real mate. What a treat!

Getting closer to Spain, the trail becomes more wooded.

The border is a simple stone marker.

There were a few small snow patches left.

Then I got to the highest point of the trail, 1,527 metres, at about 1 PM. I had my lunch there.

Then I had to make another decision: go right (a bit longer, but easier) or left (600 m shorter but very steep – also prettier). I went left. It was steep. Really steep. But only for about 10-15 minutes. The trail was gorgeous, through trees, cool and shady, wildflowers between the trees … I loved it.

Finally I got to Roncesvalles. Tired. But happy. I showered, did my laundry, had dinner, went to sleep. Tomorrow it is on to Zubirí.