May 7, to Astorga (about 18k) and May 8, to Rabanal del Camino (about 20k)

On May 7 I started walking while it was still dark.

The first town I reached, 2.6 km away, did not have any open eateries or stores. So I walked on to the next town, Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias, about 3 km further, where I knew there was a restaurant where the food was very good. I thought I knew, because there was one last year. I planned to have breakfast there. But, it was closed and for sale – no luck with breakfast.

I walked on and about 500 m later there was a place that advertised breakfast. I walked in. It was an old house. An equally old man asked me what I wanted. I said, breakfast, please. He showed me a piece of paper with the options. I pointed to Café con Leche and toast with butter and marmalade. He realized I spoke Spanish, smiled and gave me a table to myself. Two other pilgrims were eating there, and they asked me to sit with them. One was Irish, the other English.

The old man first brought me an apple. A very crisp, sweet, tasty apple on a little plate with a knife and a napkin. Then he brought café con leche in a soup bowl. It was very good coffee, but you had to drink it holding the bowl with two hands. Then he brought homemade marmalade and real butter in small dishes. Last he bought 6 pieces of freshly toasted, tasty bread.

I ate 3. I told him I couldn’t eat anymore. He told me, take them along! So I pulled out one of my plastic bags and stuck the toast in it. He got this huge smile and started telling me how much he resented when pilgrims didn’t take along what they couldn’t eat. So much waste, he said, by law he had to throw it out. I told him, make bread pudding with them. He said, can’t do it, by law I have to throw them out. So much waste. And then he gifted me a banana – just because I was taking along the 3 pieces of bread. It made my day, this whole exchange. He was such a genuine old man!

Walking on from there you go through hills on a red dirt path, until, about 6K before Astorga, you reach a sort of hippie outpost, a donativo (pay what you think is fair) with all sorts of stuff: coffee, tea, mate, bread, fruit, cookies – all kinds of stuff. It was refreshing. 

On to Astorga, down a hill and eventually up another hill to the town itself. 

Astorga is quite interesting. It has a lot of restaurants, hostels/albergues, a cathedral, and a Gaudi Palace. 

It was a cool town to hang out for an afternoon. 

On May 8 I once again left while it was still dark. I didn’t need my headlamp because the first 2 k were through town and the street lamps provided enough light. 

The day was overcast, then a bit drizzly. At about 9 o’clock it started to rain. It rained steadily for the next 3 1/2 hours until I made it to Rabanal del Camino at 1,160 m elevation. The whole way today was a gentle uphill. 

I am at my albergue now. The one funny thing about this place is that one of the washrooms (toilet) has a glass door. Not such a good idea.

With that, I wish you all a good night.