Day 12, to Hornillos del Camino

Published on:

April 27, 2026

I am, fortunately, safe and dry at my albergue in Hornillos del Camino. It is 4:40 in the afternoon and it is raining. Pouring! Buckets of water. Loud thunder. Bright lightning. I am so glad not to be out walking anymore today. 

It is, however, supposed to rain for the next two days. I imagine I will be in for some muddy walking. Oh well!

The morning started out beautiful, as most mornings have been. Fresh and clear, a joy to be walking. But … no breakfast. No coffee. I had to walk about 12K out of Burgos to Tardajos to find a coffee shop. It is called Bar Yoli, the owner’s name is Yolanda. My good sister is also Yolanda, and we call her Yoli.

Café Yoli
Beautiful rose bush by a house in Tardajos

The next town was only a couple K further, Rabé de la Calzada. We had a second coffee here. 

Walking out of Rabé, there was a small church, a chapel really. A friendly elderly nun was inviting people in to give them a sello, a stamp in the Pilgrim’s Credential we all carry. You get stamps at bars, albergues, churches, other places.

The small chapel walking out of Rabé de la Calzada

She gave me (and all there) the stamp, but also a small medal of a virgin which she put in the Credential Booklet. 

Interior of the chapel

I walked on for a few more K on a gentle up to about 930m elevation. At a lookout there I saw the town of Hornillos del Camino, at 825m elevation.

Hornillos del Camino from the lookout

The road down into Hornillos is quite steep. But I got to the town and my albergue safely.

The steep Camino down to Hornillos

I am here now resting, waiting out the rain, waiting for the Conmunal Meal at 6. After that, get ready for tomorrow and sleep. Tomorrow it is on to Castrojeriz, about 20K away. I hope for not too much mud. 

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