April 28, 2026

Last year the walk from Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz was one of my favourite days of the Camino. This year it also was a beautiful walk, but quite different than last year. 

Starting out last year, it was misty with an almost golden glow to everything as the sun came out and burned off the fog. This year the sky was a blueish grey, almost steely, and there was little fog. The sun took much longer to peak out.

But the Meseta is still as beautiful as I remember it from last year. 

There is an awesome beauty to the immense loneliness of the fields, and the splendor of the huge sky. 

We walked past San Bol and through Hontanas. 

After Hontanas the trail skirts the hills for about 5K or so. It’s a relatively flat walk. Last year it was raining while we walked, and the mud on the trail was atrocious. This year the sun was shining and the trail was easy and dry. 

At about 16K from Hornillos we reached the ruins of San Anton. They are impressive!

Four more K and we were in Castrojeriz. The town is listed as one of the most beautiful in Spain – deservedly so. The castle above the town is very old. 

Two things that are different this year from last are: (1) it is hotter this year even though I am walking almost 2 weeks earlier; and (2), there are less flowers along the way, but in towns the rose bushes are in full bloom. Last year they weren’t in towns on the Meseta.

Poppies, but not as abundant as last year

It is evening now in Castrojeriz. It is raining. Tomorrow it is on to Frómista, a roughly 25K walk. Good night!