May 13, 2026

128 km left to go and six days to get it done. I can do it!

I am in Samos tonight. This morning it was beautiful to leave in the cool morning air, hear birds and cow bells, and smell the clean, fresh air of a day after rain. It was also very pleasant to walk without rain or the fear of it.

It was mostly a downhill walk from Fonfría at about 1,300 m elevation to Samos at about 530 m. But the Camino was well kept, without steep, rocky, slippery sections; it was an easy 20K walk.

The largest town between Fonfría and Samos is Triacastela. The Camino continues to Sarria from there following the highway, but there is a variant that meanders instead through the hills to Samos and from there on to Sarria. It is 7K longer than the main Camino, but well worth it.

I took the longer route because I wanted, needed, a day and a night of peaceful quiet before starting on the last busy and noisy stretch to Santiago. Samos is that for me.

Samos is a beautiful town. The biggest attraction is the very large Monastery. It can be visited by guided tour, and I did so this afternoon.

I was particularly happy to see the organ in the church. I wish I could have heard it, but the organist was not there today.

Here is a little bit of info about the organ:

“The Abbatial Church of the Monastery of San Xulián de Samos in Galicia, Spain, houses a notable 18th-century Baroque church with a significant, large organ. It is renowned for its majestic sound, with estimates suggesting it contains over 3,000 to 4,000 pipes, used during masses and concerts.”

And with that I wish you a good night!